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Exercise 4.4 Personal Voice

Brief

Make a Google Images search for ‘landscape’, ‘portrait’, or any ordinary subject such as ‘apple’ or ‘sunset’. Add a screengrab of a representative page to your learning log and note down the similarities you find between the images.
Now take a number of your own photographs of the same subject, paying special attention to the ‘Creativity’ criteria at the end of Part One. You might like to make the subject appear ‘incidental’, for instance by using focus or framing. Or you might begin with the observation of Ernst Haas, or the ‘camera vision’ of Bill Brandt. Or if you’re feeling bold you might forget about your camera completely and think about the tricky question of originality in a different way – http://penelopeumbrico.net/index.php/project/suns/
Add a final image to your learning log, together with a selection of preparatory shots. In your notes describe how your photograph or representation differs from your Google Images source images of the same subject.

This part of the course explores creativity and a personal response to a popular or familiar subject and the development of a personal voice. The exercise asks that students be willing to experiment.
The course handbook (p.94) gives some examples of this and includes the British landscape photographer John Davies, who produced an image of an industrial landscape with Mount Fuji in the background, (Fig. 2) going against the normal framing of Mount Fuji in the foreground, often with water and cherry blossom; the quintessential image (Fig. 4).
It also includes the international Magnum photographer Chris Steele Perkins, who shot Mount Fuji as part of a backdrop rather than the main subject in his images of everyday life (Fig. 3).

Fig.2 John Davies

Fig.3 JAPAN. Fuji City. Rice harvest.1998.

Fig.4

Some other examples from the course handout (p96) included:
Victor Burgin:
“There can never be any question of “just looking”: vision is structured in such a way that the look will always -already entrain a history of the subject”.
Bill Brandt:
“Instead of photographing what I saw, I photographed what the camera was seeing. I interfered very little, and the lens produced anatomical images and shapes which my eyes had never observed”.
David Bailey:
“In photography everything is so ordinary; it takes a lot of looking before you learn to see the ordinary”.

German born Bill Brandt gained a fresh perspective on photography by using methods such as a wide-angled lens when photographing nudes, which allowed him to “see like a mouse, a fish or a fly” (Fig.5)

Fig.5

During my research into night time photography I came across an American photographer/cinematographer, Daniel Marker-Moore, who also works with animation, motion graphics and commercials.
He creates images using a method called “Time slice” which produces unique and creative works (Fig 11-13).
The images are created by combining slices of anywhere between 20 and 120 shots, all taken over a period of time.
” Time Slice is an image built from the photos of a timelapse. Each slice is a photograph taken at a different point in time, usually a few minutes after the previous slice. All the Time Slice images are unique, made from a different number of images, over a different amount of time. My process involves a great deal of exploration and experimentation by mixing time in various ways. When I can I visit a location numerous times until my vision is captured. The most recent addition to the series is Time Slice videos that blends the original time-lapse and sometimes animation inside the formed slice” (Daniel Marker-Moore)

A video explaining Daniels Time slice method is available at: https://www.danorst.com/time-slice-bts

Fig.11 Daniel Marker-Moore. London’s Elizabeth fig Tower (Big Ben)
Time Slice: 118 photos over 1 hour 36 minutes

Fig 12 Daniel Marker Moore. Downtown Chicago and the Chicago River
Time Slice: 52 photos over 12 hours 14 minutes

Fig.13 Daniel Marker Moore. LA from above Griffith Park Observatory
Time Slice: 52 photos over 2 hours 15 minutes

I liked the idea of slicing images together to create something unique but wanted to use this in a different way. I was fascinated by the colour variations when testing the white balance settings on my camera in a previous exercise, and wondered what I would produce if I used the same slice method but on images taken with different white balance settings rather than over time.

I tested it with the previous images and was quite surprised at the results (Img.1-2).
Using different sized slices gave varied results and comparing the two images, I preferred image 1 which has the stronger colour variations.

Gallery of the images used for the slices:

Img.1

Img.2

I decided to use an apple as my subject for this exercise and used one that had a red and yellow skin as I thought this might make a more interesting final image, once the slices have been combined.

A google search for Apple brought back quite a few different images (Fig.14) but they were mainly red apples against a plain background.

Fig.14

My camera has several WB settings:

  1. 3 Auto settings: Reduce warm colours, normal or keep warm colours
  2. Auto Natural Light
  3. Incandescent
  4. Fluorescent
  5. Direct Sunlight
  6. Flash
  7. Cloudy
  8. Shade

It has other customisable options but I wanted any colour manipulation to be default rather than something I had customised. It is easy to move between the settings, so I should be able to get 10 shots all with a different white balance. As with my test shots, I am expecting some of them to look similar.

I used a variety of lighting including natural daylight, halogen and incandescent lights.
In my first attempt I felt that the highlights and shadows were a little bit harsh.

Lighting set up

I placed a diffuser between the apple and the main light source coming from below, to even out and soften the light and thus produced a more appealing image.

I wanted to experiment a bit more and wondered what difference it would make if I used an item that was more opaque or translucent.

So I used a dried chestnut tree leaf and kept the lighting and camera settings the same.
There was more variation in both colour and texture when using the leaf as some of the light is being seen through it.

A google search for dried chestnut leaf (Fig.15) mainly produced images in which the shape of the leaf was prominent, with a mix of leaves still on the tree, green, red and brown.

Fig.15

I wasn’t completely happy with the effect I was getting so decided to wait till it was dark and I could eliminate all natural light. I also changed the position of the apple and the leaf slightly.

I applied the slice method on the final two sets of images (Img. 3-4).

Img.3

Img.4

Describe how your photograph or representation differs from your Google Images source images of the same subject

The apple image is quite like the Google images, but not, all at the same time.
The leaf image is very different from the Google images and looks more abstract.

Both images are of something natural that has been captured using technology without any intention of showing them in their natural state. They remind me a bit of Andy Warhol’s pop art posters (Fig.16) although this didn’t come to mind until I finished the exercise.

Fig.16 Andy Warhol

 

Bibliography

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/bill-brandt-working-methods

Figure 2
At: https://www.artimage.org.uk/17852/john-davies/mt–fuji–fuji-city-810–japan–2008
[Accessed 03/12/2019]

Figure 3
At: https://pro.magnumphotos.com/C.aspx?
[Accessed 03/12/2019]

Figure 4
At: https://matadornetwork.com/read/epic-views-mount-fuji/
[Accessed 03/12/2019]

Figure 5
At: https://www.houkgallery.com/exhibitions/bill-brandt-the-nude-a-centenary-exhibition
[Accessed 05/12/2019]

Figures 11-13
At: https://www.danorst.com/time-slice
[Accessed 09/12/2019]

Exercise 1.4 Frame

Brief
Take a good number of shots, composing each shot within a single section of the viewfinder grid. Don’t bother about the rest of the frame! Use any combination of the grid section, subject and viewpoint you choose.
Select six or eight images that you feel work both individually and as a set and present them as a single composite image. Add to your learning log together with technical information such as camera settings and two or three lines containing your thoughts and observations.

Creating a set of coherent images is a something I find difficult. I am hoping that as part of this exercise it will start to help me unravel my confusion.

I found it virtually impossible to ignore the rest of the frame! So much so that I decided to force it by creating several paper templates that covered all but one area of the viewfinder when in live view. This was so much easier!

Camera: Nikon D800 Manual Mode 24-70mm Nikon lens

First attempt below using the templates
There is definitely a feeling of coalescence in the set of images. They were taken in a small area, so the same materials and some objects appear in more than one images, although they are being shown from a different angle or focal length.

 

 

 

In my final attempt below I think the some of the images are too similar. For example the tree and grass in In Image 1and 6.

I was quite surprised at how the images turned out. In particular image 5. I placed the middle tree  in the central portion of the frame which meant I was ignoring the rest of the trees, bikes, people to the left and right and the, roof (top) and paving slabs (bottom). The shadows have framed the central strip, with the trees, bikes and people making it a far more interesting shot with plenty of movement along the horizontal line.
Image 4 was also a pleasant surprise with the perspective lines (Paving stones, bikes and trees) leading the eye from the red child carrier (point) into the distance. The eye is kept in the frame on the left by the strong vertical line of the building and shadow.

I don’t think they all work particularly well as individual images, but I think they work as a set.

Apart from image 7 with the woman walking out of the frame on the left, there were surprisingly no unsightly random unwanted objects in each frame!

Composite image

I enjoyed this exercise but found ignoring the rest of the frame quite challenging. I ended up using a paper template over the live view panel with different sections removed.

I think it has helped me somewhat with my understanding of what makes a coherent set of images, but I think I may have a lot more to learn and understand about this aspect of photography.

 

Exercise 1.3 (2) Line

Brief
Take a number of shots using lines to flatten the pictorial space. To avoid the effects of perspective,

the sensor/film plane should be parallel to the subject and you may like to try a high viewpoint. Modern architecture offers strong lines and dynamic diagonals, and zooming in can help to create simpler, more abstract compositions.
Review your shots from both parts of Exercise 1.3. How do the different lines relate to the frame?

It was quite difficult to get the sensor parallel to the frame as some of the scenes were quite high. I didn’t crop any of the images which allowed me to see in more detail if there were any perspective effects. In both images the eye is kept within the frame along the lines which os the opposite to the effect in the previous exercise.
For image one, the steps and wall on the left (coming towards me) could have been flatter if I had moved a bit more to the left when I took the shot.
Image 2 was an easy one to take as the bricks started from the ground and I could get close enough to them to get the sensor parallel. When I reviewed the image I wondered if I should have taken the shot with a bit of fill flash to remove the shadows. I also think that by rotating the camera I would have produced a more interesting abstract image

I decided to go and retake image 1 and 2. (below)
There is still a bit of distortion for Image 1a (drain pipe leaning to the right) The problem seems to be, not being able to get far enough away or high enough to get the sensor parallel. The eye is still kept within the frame.
I noticed that in image 2a, although I think it makes a more interesting image, the eye is not kept in the frame as much as it is for Image 1. I believe this may be because in Image 1 the horizontal and vertical lines act like bars, stopping the eye leaving the frame. For image 1a the eye is free to go along the lines and out of the frame, although not as quickly or as effectively as when using perspective lines.

With both image 3 and 4 it was difficult to get far enough away to get the sensor parallel. There was either something in the way behind me or I ended up with subjects included in the frame that took away the flattening effect of the image as a whole. However, In both cases I had nice vertical lines to match up with the frame so that I could judge how flat the scene was. I think both of them have a small amount of perspective effect going on but not enough to completely spoil the flattening effect.

 

Image 5 was a scene that caught my eye as I was on my way home. Lots of perpendicular lines framed by the roof and the paving stones.

When I reviewed my shots from both parts of this (Exercise Line 1&2) it is clear that the flattened images cause the eye to move around the image and along the lines but not out of the  frame. The eye seems to move along the horizontal and vertical, being almost constrained by the lines. This is in complete contrast with the converging lines which take the eye all the way to the end of the line without coming back. There was an exception for one  of my shots (6) where there was an object towards the end of the line which stopped the eye on the chairs and brought it back into the frame. This image was being taken for the “Point” exercise so the lengthening perspective for the fence is not that strong, however it still leads the eye to the chairs and if they hadn’t been there the eye would have moved out of the frame.

 

Exercise 1.3 (1) Line

Brief
Take a number of shots using lies to create a sense of depth. Shooting with a wide angle lens (zooming out) strengthens a diagonal line by giving it more length within the frame. The effect is dramatically accentuated if you choose a viewpoint close to the line.

I took image 1 first and wondered if the line would appear lengthened if a took portrait shot instead of landscape. There is indeed less to detract the eye from moving down the line and into the distance and therefore appears longer. In the brief it suggests that the lengthening effect is dramatically accentuated if the viewpoint is close to the line. In both these shots the camera is sitting on the wood itself.

In image 3 the tractor tyre marks on the grass help to to create a sense of depth, pulling the eye down the track into the converging lines created by the hedge.
In image 4 I once again got close to the line (fence) to accentuate the depth. A rather distracting bollard on the left though (more “points” sneaking into my Line exercise!)

 

I really enjoyed this exercise but trying to look for points and lines at the same time to cover both exercises caused me some issues and I think I discovered quite a bit about how lines and points can work together well.

 

Exercise 1.1 The Instrument